Door Frames FAQs
How do I measure for a new internal door frame?
Measure the width and height of the existing door or the rough opening in inches. For a pre-hung unit, add about 2 inches to the door width and 2-1/2 inches to the height to allow room for shimming. Also measure the jamb depth to match the wall thickness, typically around 4-9/16 inches for finished walls.
Can I replace a door frame myself or should I hire a pro?
If you’re comfortable with basic carpentry and have tools, you can replace an interior frame, especially if the opening is square and the floor level. Pre-hung units make DIY simpler. Hire a pro for external doors, fire-rated frames, or when structural changes are involved — a poor installation can lead to drafts, security issues, or a door that won’t close properly.
What material is best for an exterior door frame in wet climates?
uPVC and composite frames handle moisture and temperature changes best with minimal maintenance. Treated hardwood can also work if properly sealed and maintained, but it requires more attention over time. Avoid plain softwood for external frames unless it’s well-treated and regularly maintained.
Are fire-rated door frames necessary for home renovations?
Fire-rated frames are required where building regulations call for a fire door, such as between a garage and living space or in certain flats. If your renovation affects fire compartments or escape routes, check local regulations and use appropriately rated frames and doors. For typical internal home doors, fire-rated frames aren’t usually necessary unless specified.
How much clearance should I leave under a door for flooring?
Allow about 3/8 inch to 1/2 inch clearance under interior doors for carpet and rugs; for hard floors, around 1/4 inch is often sufficient. Exterior doors need a tight seal for weatherproofing, so choose thresholds and seals that match your floor height — typical threshold heights are about 3/4 inch to 1 inch above the finished floor.