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Door frames are more than just the invisible edges that hold your doors in place — they’re the handshake between the room and the rest of the house. Pick the right frame and your door will sit square, seal against drafts, and look sharp; pick the wrong one and you’ll be wrestling with sticking doors, leaks, or awkward gaps. This guide walks you through popular materials, common sizes in imperial units, installation tips, and the upgrades that make a real difference, whether you’re renovating one room or replacing every frame in the house.
Think of a door frame as the backbone for the door: it supports the weight, aligns the hinges and latch, and keeps weather and noise at bay. Frames also anchor hinges and locks, so strength and precision matter. Good frames maintain the functionality of your door over years of use — they don’t sag, they resist moisture, and they keep the door operating smoothly like a well-oiled hinge on a trusted old gate.
From a design standpoint, the frame defines the look of the opening. The style of architrave you choose, the bevel of the jamb, and whether the frame is painted or stained all influence the room’s appearance. Structurally, a frame transfers forces from the door to the wall studs and must be compatible with the door thickness — usually 1-3/8 inches for internal doors and 1-3/4 inches for external doors.
Frames play a key role in energy efficiency and security. A tight-fitting frame helps reduce drafts, keeping heating bills lower and rooms more comfortable. For external doors, sturdy frames that accommodate multipoint locks and secure hinges greatly improve security. Add weather seals and thresholds and you’ve got a defensive line that stops rain, wind, and unwanted visitors alike.
Material choice affects cost, durability, and style. The most common options are hardwoods, softwoods and MDF, uPVC and composite, and steel for heavy-duty or fire-rated applications. Each material has pros and cons depending on location, budget, and look. Let’s break them down so you can match the frame to the job.
Hardwood frames, such as oak or mahogany, are chosen when aesthetics and longevity matter. They’re robust, age well, and take finishes beautifully. Hardwood is great for visible, high-end interior doors or grand external entrances. Bear in mind they’re usually more expensive and may need sealing or maintenance in damp environments to prevent warping over time.
Softwood frames (like pine) and MDF are the workhorses of many homes. MDF offers a smooth, paint-ready surface and consistent dimensions, which makes it ideal for painted doors and contemporary styles. Softwood is lighter and cheaper but can dent more easily. Both are excellent choices for interior doors where budget and appearance take precedence over extreme durability.
uPVC and composite frames excel at resisting moisture and rot, which makes them popular for external doors and high-humidity areas like bathrooms. They don’t require painting and are generally low maintenance. Composite frames combine durable materials with a timber-like appearance, giving you the best of both worlds: durability and style without relentless upkeep.
Steel frames are used where strength, security, or fire performance is required — think commercial entrances, garages, or fire doors. Fire-rated frames are tested to maintain their integrity for a specified period in a fire, commonly 20, 30, or 60 minutes. They’re heavier and more expensive than timber frames but essential where regulations demand a specific fire rating.
Before buying a frame, measure your rough opening carefully. Using imperial units makes it easier for many homeowners to picture the fit. Here are typical dimensions and how they relate to door selection. Remember, measure twice and account for shims and trim.
Interior door widths commonly come in 24 inches, 27 inches, 30 inches, and 33 inches. Standard interior door heights are usually 78 inches (6 feet 6 inches) or 80 inches (6 feet 8 inches). Door thicknesses are often 1-3/8 inches. Jamb depths vary with wall construction — a common jamb depth for finished walls is 4-9/16 inches, which accommodates a framed wall with plaster or drywall. Always account for architrave and trim when measuring the finished opening.
Exterior doors tend to be wider for accessibility and mobility. A typical exterior door might be 36 inches wide and 80 inches tall. Exterior door thickness commonly runs to 1-3/4 inches to accommodate stronger locks. Thresholds add a small rise — usually around 3/4 inch to 1 inch — and should be chosen to match the frame and the flooring height to prevent trips and water ingress.
When replacing a door, you’ll see two main options: buy a pre-hung door (door already fitted into a frame) or fit a separate frame and hang the door yourself. Each has advantages depending on skill level, budget, and the condition of the existing opening.
Pre-hung doors come factory-assembled, so the hinge alignment is precise and weather seals are already fitted. They’re ideal if the existing frame is damaged or if you’re installing a new opening. Pre-hung units reduce installation time and risk of misalignment, which is great for DIYers who want a smoother process and a door that operates perfectly out of the box.
If your existing frame is sound, replacing just the door slab can be cheaper and faster. Buying a separate frame makes sense if you have a custom opening or want to match the exact depth of existing wall construction. It’s also preferred by skilled installers who want precise control over shimming, sealing, and final finishes.
Installing a door frame is part woodworking, part carpentry, and part art. Even small mistakes in measurement can lead to sticking doors or uneven gaps. Follow these tips to improve your success on a DIY job or to know what to expect from a pro.
Start by measuring the rough opening — the empty space in the wall where the frame will sit. For a pre-hung 30-inch door, add about 2 inches to the width and 2-1/2 inches to the height to allow for shims and working space. Check that the floor is level and the studs are plumb. If the floor slopes, plan shimming from beneath the jamb rather than sanding the bottom of the door.
Secure the frame with screws through the jamb into the studs, using shims behind the hinges and lock plate to set the frame plumb. Tighten screws gradually and check door swing frequently. Use low-expansion foam or silicone sealant to seal gaps between the frame and the wall; avoid overfilling cavities with expanding foam, which can bow a frame if it expands too much.
Small upgrades can make your door feel premium and function better daily. From improved thresholds to better locks, these choices improve comfort and security while boosting resale value. Consider which accessories fit your needs and budget.
Architrave transforms a simple frame into a finished feature. Choose wide, detailed trim for period homes and slim, flat trim for modern interiors. Skirting boards that meet the architrave nicely create a cohesive look. MDF architrave is cost-effective and paints well, while solid timber architrave offers a more natural, premium look when stained.
For exterior doors, invest in multipoint locks, robust hinges, and steel strike plates. Weatherstrips reduce drafts and noise — a simple foam or rubber seal can be dramatically effective. Thresholds should be matched to the frame to maintain a smooth transition and prevent water from entering. Consider adjustable thresholds if you anticipate future flooring changes.
Not every frame suits every room. Laundry rooms and bathrooms need moisture-resistant frames, while front entrances need high security and weather resistance. Bedrooms might prioritize sound-reducing seals. Match the frame material and accessories to the room’s demands for the best long-term results.
Set a budget first and prioritize what matters most — looks, longevity, or maintenance. If you love a painted contemporary look, MDF frames are sensible. If you want longevity and a classic style, hardwood might be worth the extra cost. For wet areas or external doors, opt for uPVC or composite frames to minimize upkeep.
If sustainability matters to you, look for FSC-certified timber, reclaimed wood, or engineered timber options. Regular maintenance — tightening hinge screws, oiling hardware, and touching up finish — keeps frames in peak condition. For painted frames, a light sanding and repaint every few years prevents moisture infiltration and keeps things looking fresh.
Door frames can range from budget-friendly to premium. Basic MDF internal frames may start around £40 to £80 per unit, while hardwood or specialized fire-rated frames can run several hundred pounds. Pre-hung exterior units often cost more because they include the door slab, locks, and seals. To find the best deals, compare product specs (material, fire rating, jamb depth, warranty) across comparison sites and retailer listings, then factor in installation costs if you’re hiring a fitter.
Choosing the right door frame pays dividends in looks, comfort, and security. Whether you’re swapping a single frame during a refresh or renovating whole rooms, understanding materials, sizes in imperial units, installation basics, and useful upgrades helps you make smarter choices. Measure carefully, match the frame to the door thickness and wall depth, and don’t skimp on seals and hardware for external doors. The right frame is invisible when it’s doing its job — but you’ll notice when it isn’t.
Door Frames | Price | |
---|---|---|
Swedoor Snap-in Karmsæt Incl. Bolt 110mm 9x21 | kr. 749,- | |
Swedoor Snap-in Karmsæt Incl. Bolt 110mm 7x21 | kr. 749,- | |
Swedoor Doorframe - Excluding. Bolt 100mm 9x21 | kr. 795,- | |
Swedoor 100mm Frame White With Bøgebund M9x21 886x2089 | kr. 874,- | |
Swedoor 110mm Frame White With Bøgebund M8x21 786x2089 | kr. 962,- | |
Swedoor Snap-in Karmsæt Incl. Bolt 100mm 9x21 | kr. 995,- | |
Swedoor Frame Excluding. Bolt 100mm 9x21 | kr. 999,- | |
Swedoor Flex Frame Incl. Bolt 110mm 8x21 | kr. 1.030,- | |
Swedoor 110mm Frame White With Bøgebund M15x21 1513x2089 | kr. 1.569,- | |
Swedoor Frame 128mm 886x2089 V M Bottom Guy White Bd30 35db M | kr. 2.370,- |