Aquarium Overflow Boxes price list
Last updated Friday, Sep 4, 2026
| Aquarium Overflow Boxes | Price |
|---|---|
| Marina 3 In 1 Breeding Trap | £6.40 |
| Marina 2 In 1 Fish Hatchery | £6.79 |
| Marina Multi-breeder 5 Way Trap | £11.99 |
Aquarium Overflow Boxes
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Last updated Friday, Sep 4, 2026
| Aquarium Overflow Boxes | Price |
|---|---|
| Marina 3 In 1 Breeding Trap | £6.40 |
| Marina 2 In 1 Fish Hatchery | £6.79 |
| Marina Multi-breeder 5 Way Trap | £11.99 |
An aquarium overflow box is the bridge between your display tank and your sump, quietly transporting water to your filtration system and back again. Think of it like a safety valve and a surface skimmer rolled into one. It maintains a stable water level in the display, skims away oily films that block gas exchange, and feeds your sump where serious filtration magic happens. Whether you keep a planted freshwater tank or a bustling reef, a well-chosen overflow box is the backbone of a stable, crystal-clear system.
Overflow boxes come in two main flavors: hang-on-back (HOB) units that clamp onto the rim, and drilled configurations that use bulkheads through the glass. Both move water to a sump, but they do it differently, and those differences matter for noise, reliability, and aesthetics. Wondering which style suits your setup? Let’s break it down so you can pick with confidence.
HOB overflow boxes are popular because you don’t need to drill the tank. They hang on the rim and use a U-tube or similar siphon to pull water into a rear box, then send it down to the sump via gravity. The upside is obvious: no glass drilling and easy installation. The trade-off is that siphons require careful setup and maintenance to avoid air buildup. Modern HOB designs often include reliable priming features, surface-skimming weirs, and baffles that reduce microbubbles and noise. For smaller tanks or renters who can’t risk drilling, a quality HOB is a smart, budget-friendly gateway to sump filtration.
Drilled overflow boxes use holes in the glass and bulkhead fittings to create a direct path to the sump. Internal boxes sit inside the tank; external “ghost” or slim-profile boxes keep most hardware out of sight behind the aquarium. The big win here is reliability—no siphon to lose prime—and a clean, professional look. Drilled systems are typically quieter and offer more options for advanced drain setups, like Herbie or BeanAnimal (more on those soon). If you want a long-term, whisper-quiet solution for medium to large tanks, drilled boxes are tough to beat.
The weir—the comb or slotted edge where water spills over—matters more than you might think. A wide weir pulls a thin, even sheet of water from the surface, removing proteins and dust that hinder light and oxygen exchange. That means clearer water, happier fish, and healthier corals or plants. Look for fine, fish-safe teeth that keep snails and fry from taking an unwanted ride to the sump.
Picking an overflow box isn’t just about looks; it’s about matching flow, noise, and redundancy to your aquarium. Aim for a comfortable operating range that your return pump can maintain without pushing the drain to its limit. Oversizing a bit is usually smart—it runs quieter and leaves headroom for future upgrades.
As a quick starting point, a 20 to 40 gallon display typically pairs well with an overflow rated around 300 to 600 GPH. A 55 to 75 gallon tank often sits comfortably between 600 and 900 GPH. Moving to 90 to 125 gallons, you may want 900 to 1,200 GPH or more, and for 150+ gallons, look above 1,200 GPH with multiple drains for redundancy. Remember, these are ballparks—your actual needs depend on livestock, desired turnover, and your sump’s capacity for handling bubbles and noise.
GPH (gallons per hour) is your flow rate. Your return pump’s real-world GPH will be lower than the box says once you account for head height, elbows, and valves. The trick is to choose an overflow that comfortably exceeds your pump’s actual return rate. For example, if your pump delivers about 700 GPH at a 5 foot head, an overflow in the 900 to 1,200 GPH range will purr instead of roar. Underdriving the overflow usually equals quieter operation and less salt spray.
A single-drain system is simple but can gurgle and offers limited redundancy. A Herbie uses two drains: one full-siphon tuned by a gate valve for silence, plus an emergency drain for safety. A BeanAnimal adds a third “open channel” drain for ultra-stable, ultra-quiet performance. If you can run three drains, BeanAnimal is as close to silent as it gets. For two-drain setups, a well-tuned Herbie is a fantastic balance of safety and quiet.
Noise is the dealbreaker for many aquarists, but it doesn’t have to be. Most noise comes from air mixing with water, water falling too far, or turbulent plumbing. Smart box design, proper standpipes, and simple tuning can turn a waterfall into a whisper.
A Durso standpipe is a single drain with an air vent to tame flushing. It’s quieter than an open drain but not the quietest. A Herbie’s full-siphon drain removes air from the equation entirely, while a dry emergency drain stands ready for clogs. BeanAnimal refines this with a third line that stabilizes pressure changes, delivering near-silent flow even as GPH fluctuates. If you prize tranquility, go Herbie or BeanAnimal.
Small tweaks pay big dividends. Submerge the drain outlet in the sump by roughly 1 to 2 inches to prevent splashing. Add a gate valve to the full-siphon line for precise tuning, and use unions to make adjustments painless. If you hear slurping, you’re likely drawing air—close the valve slightly on the siphon, or raise the water level in the overflow box so the intake is fully submerged. A short length of airline tubing in a Durso’s cap can also “de-flush” by stabilizing air intake.
Whether you drill or hang, installation sets the tone for years of worry-free operation. Measure twice, dry-fit everything, and plan your plumbing like a clean subway map, not a spaghetti bowl.
If you’re drilling, confirm the panel isn’t tempered. Use a diamond hole saw, a drill guide, and steady, low pressure with constant water to cool the bit. Install bulkheads with the gasket on the flange side, hand-tight plus a quarter turn—no over-torquing. Wipe threads clean, avoid pipe dope on bulkhead threads, and use PTFE tape on threaded PVC fittings to prevent slow leaks.
For HOB boxes, mount level and ensure the weir teeth sit just below the display’s trim. Prime the U-tube or internal siphon as instructed, and consider an air-lift or venturi assist to slurp out bubbles that accumulate over time. Keep the prefilter and weir teeth clean so flow remains strong—siphons fail when trapped air wins. A reliable power-outage test is a must: kill power, watch levels stabilize, then restore power and confirm the siphon restarts automatically.
Most aquarists use Schedule 40 PVC for drains and returns; Schedule 80 fittings add toughness where you need it. Dry-fit all parts, mark alignment with a sharpie, then cement with primer and PVC glue for a permanent, leak-free bond. Strategic unions and true-union ball or gate valves make maintenance a breeze. Keep bends gentle—two 45s are often quieter and less restrictive than a single sharp 90.
Even the best overflow box needs occasional care. A few minutes each month prevents surprise floods and keeps things whisper quiet. Listen to your system; changes in sound often signal the need for a quick clean or tweak.
Algae on weir teeth or a skimmer box can choke flow and cause water levels to creep. A toothbrush or narrow brush clears gunk fast. Remove snail shells, macroalgae, or plant leaves before they take the express ride to your sump. For standpipes, a soft bottle brush dislodges buildup without scratching. Check strainers frequently; they’re your first line of defense against clogging.
Salt creep happens wherever mist meets air. Wipe down rims and fittings weekly and use snug slip connections or thread sealant where appropriate. If gurgling begins, suspect air intrusion, partially clogged strainers, or a sump water level that’s too low. A quick re-tune of a Herbie valve or raising the overflow’s internal water line often restores silence. Always test your emergency drain by partially blocking the main line—safety isn’t optional.
Not all overflow boxes are created equal. Premium models earn their keep with thoughtful engineering, quality materials, and quiet performance right out of the box. If you’re shopping and comparing deals, these are the features that separate the great from the merely good.
Cast acrylic and precision-molded parts resist warping, yellowing, and cracking. Thick, straight weir teeth minimize vibration and hum. Magnetic or silicone gaskets on lids dampen noise and keep salt creep in check. Clear yet durable materials make it easy to spot clogs before they cause trouble.
Two or three drain bulkheads drastically reduce risk. A dedicated emergency drain should sit slightly higher than the main line, dry during normal use, and ready to catch flow if debris jams the siphon. Built-in features for Herbie or BeanAnimal plumbing show the manufacturer understands real-world needs.
Low-profile internal boxes and slim external housings keep your display uncluttered. Blacked-out acrylic hides algae films and blends into a dark background. Narrow footprints leave room for aquascaping while still offering a wide weir for superior surface skimming. If you love a minimalist look, a sleek “ghost” style box is a crowd-pleaser.
Accessories aren’t just upsells; the right ones make daily life easier and quieter. Spend where it matters and skip the gimmicks.
Strainers keep shrimp, snails, and plant bits from entering the drain. A high-quality gate valve lets you fine-tune a full-siphon with fingertip precision, whereas ball valves are better for on/off control. Unions at strategic points—near the overflow, at the sump entry, and next to the return pump—turn a plumbing teardown into a two-minute job.
Adjustable return nozzles help direct flow without extra powerheads. Check valves can offer peace of mind, but treat them as a convenience, not a crutch—they can fail. A simple siphon break hole drilled just below the display’s waterline on the return line creates a reliable air gap that stops back-siphon during power loss. Keep that hole clear; a toothpick or tiny drill bit does the job.
Overflow boxes serve both worlds well, but salt and fresh present different challenges. Salt brings salt creep and microbubbles; fresh often prioritizes plant-friendly flow and CO2 retention. Your livestock and aquascape should guide your choices.
Reef tanks love stable, high-quality water and consistent gas exchange. A silent Herbie or BeanAnimal shines here, especially on systems with protein skimmers in the sump. Aim for steady turnover—often 5 to 10 times display volume per hour—balanced with in-tank powerheads for coral flow. A wide weir helps keep the surface spotless, improving light penetration for your corals.
Planted aquariums may prefer moderate turnover to preserve injected CO2. A well-tuned single or Herbie drain with lower GPH can keep things quiet and stable. Use fine weir teeth or mesh screens to protect delicate shrimp and small fish. If you’re pushing nutrients and light, clean that weir often—biofilm builds fast in lush, high-growth tanks.
From entry-level HOB units to premium slim-profile drilled boxes, there’s an option for every wallet. Prices scale with materials, machining quality, and how many drain options you get. When shopping, compare specs like GPH rating, included bulkheads, and compatibility with Herbie/BeanAnimal plumbing to avoid hidden costs later.
Entry-level HOB overflows are easy on the budget and great for smaller tanks or renters. As you move up, better acrylic, quieter baffles, wider weirs, and multi-drain support justify the spend—especially if you value silence and safety. Premium drilled boxes often include laser-straight weirs, beefy bulkheads, and thoughtfully placed lids and gaskets that tame noise before it starts.
It pays to compare. Price-checking across multiple retailers helps you spot genuine value, bundle deals, and compatible accessories in one place. Comparison platforms like ZoneOffer exist to surface options and offers side by side, so you can weigh features and pricing before you commit. Always verify what’s included—bulkheads, strainers, lids, and drilling templates can swing the total cost.
Concrete examples make planning easier. Use these as starting points, then tailor to your space, sump, and livestock. Oversize a little when in doubt—you can always throttle flow down.
A compact HOB overflow rated around 300 to 600 GPH paired with a quiet DC return pump works beautifully. Keep plumbing simple with soft tubing to the sump and a single union for easy service. For drilled fans, a slim internal box with two drains (mini Herbie) delivers near-silent performance and superb surface skimming without dominating the scape.
Here, a drilled overflow with a Herbie setup shines. Target 600 to 900 GPH actual flow, a gate valve on the siphon, and a dry emergency drain. Add unions by the sump and return pump. A wider weir improves surface clarity—great for bright reef lights or plant-heavy freshwater displays. If you stick to HOB, choose a high-quality model with reliable re-priming features and test it thoroughly during simulated outages.
Step into a three-drain BeanAnimal if possible. At 900 to 1,200 GPH, the system stays serenely quiet and resilient to clogging. Use 1 inch or larger drains, submerged outlets, and a tidy manifold to feed reactors without extra pumps. With big tanks, silence matters more—you’ll appreciate the calm during movie night.
Large displays benefit from dual overflows or one wide external box with a full BeanAnimal. Consider 1.5 inch drains for extra headroom and future upgrades. Use multiple returns for even circulation and create a robust siphon break strategy. Redundancy is your friend—large volumes reward careful planning.
Overflow lore can be noisy too. Let’s bust a few myths and flag pitfalls before they cause headaches.
Modern HOB overflows, properly installed and maintained, run for years without drama. The key is regular cleaning, reliable priming, and a strong, bubble-resistant siphon path. Drilled boxes are inherently safer and quieter, yes, but HOBs remain a practical choice for renters and smaller tanks. Choose quality over the cheapest option, and test, test, test.
More flow isn’t always better. Oversized pumps create turbulence, microbubbles, and noise, and they can overwhelm your overflow’s capacity. Aim for steady, moderate turnover and let your powerheads handle in-tank circulation. If the sump looks like a hot tub, dial it back.
Efficiency pays you back every month. A bit of planning cuts noise, heat, and power draw without sacrificing performance. Your fish, corals, and wallet all benefit.
Choose a return pump that delivers your target GPH at your actual head height without running flat-out. Smooth plumbing, gentle bends, and properly sized pipe reduce load. A quiet, efficient DC pump paired with a well-tuned Herbie or BeanAnimal often runs cooler, quieter, and cheaper than a brute-force approach.
Soft silicone tubing on the return line, rubber feet under pumps, and snug lids on overflow boxes minimize vibration. Even a yoga mat under your sump can dampen hum. Small changes compound into big comfort, especially in living rooms and bedrooms.
Aquarium overflow boxes are the unsung heroes of clean, stable, and beautiful tanks. Whether you choose a simple HOB for a cozy 30 gallon or a sleek drilled BeanAnimal for a 180 gallon showpiece, the right box turns filtration into a silent partner. Focus on wide weirs for surface clarity, drains with real redundancy, and plumbing that favors smooth, submerged flow. Compare features and value carefully, pair your overflow with a sensibly sized return pump, and test your system under power-out conditions. Do that, and you’ll enjoy a display that looks stunning, runs quietly, and earns your trust every single day.