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Picking the correct drywall anchor is a bit like choosing the right key for a lock — you want one that fits, holds, and won’t let you down when you put weight on it. Anchors turn soft, brittle drywall into a secure mounting point for shelves, mirrors, light fixtures, and TV brackets. A poor choice can mean sagging shelves, damaged walls, or a repair job that costs more time and money than the original task. In this guide we’ll break down popular Unicrimp fixings — from wedge anchors to cavity screws — explain when to use each type, and suggest alternatives so you can feel confident your anchors will perform.
Unicrimp makes a broad range of anchors and fixings that are popular for home and light-construction projects. The company’s lineup includes wedge anchors for solid substrates, hollow wall anchors for plasterboard, general-purpose wall plugs, hammer-in fixings, and mixed tubs of cavity screws and fittings. Below I’ll go through the main items, what they’re best for, and what to look out for when you buy.
Wedge anchors are designed for solid materials like brick, concrete, and stone. The Unicrimp M6×1.0 in wedge anchors (the 1.0 in length is ideal for medium-duty bolts) expand inside the drilled hole to create a tight mechanical grip. Use them when you need a strong, vibration-resistant hold — for example, attaching a heavy bracket to masonry. They’re sold in larger packs of 100, which makes them great value for contractors or homeowners tackling multiple anchor points.
For heavier loads, the M10×1.6 in wedge anchors offer a thicker shank and deeper embedment. These are your go-to for mounting heavier brackets or fixtures to solid walls. Because they expand more, they create a more robust connection than smaller wedge anchors. A pack of 50 provides a balance between economy and having enough stock for several projects.
Large hollow wall anchors are built for hollow or cavity walls — mainly drywall (plasterboard) — where you can’t rely on a solid substrate. These anchors typically open behind the wall to form a wide bearing surface, distributing load across more area. They work well for medium-weight items like towel rails, curtain poles, and floating shelves. The pack-of-10 format is useful when you only need a few secure fixings without buying in bulk.
Wall plugs (also called rawl plugs or plastic plugs) are the classic all-rounder. The brown Unicrimp wall plugs in a 100-count box are ideal for general-purpose screw anchoring into brick, block, or masonry. Use them with wood screws to fasten lightweight brackets, small shelves, or picture rails. They’re inexpensive, easy to use, and a staple in any toolbox.
Hammer-in fixings are fast, tidy, and ideal for quick installs into medium-density materials. The 6×1.6 in hammer-in anchors are driven in with a hammer and then accept a screw to clamp your fixture. They’re not for the heaviest loads, but they shine for items like cable clips, small hooks, or lightweight rails where speed and neatness matter. The pack of 16 is a practical size for a single room or a small job.
If you want a mixed selection for general handyman work, a tub of 200 cavity screws and fixings gives you a lot of flexibility. These assortments typically include a range of screws, plugs, and perhaps some toggles — everything you need to fix into plasterboard and light masonry. For landlords, handymen, or households that face varied hanging tasks, a big tub reduces repeated trips to the store.
Choosing an anchor comes down to three key questions: what is the wall made of, how much weight will it carry, and how permanent does the fixing need to be? Solid materials like brick and concrete respond best to wedge or sleeve anchors. Hollow walls need toggles, hollow wall anchors, or self-drilling plasterboard anchors. Lightweight, short-term needs might be solved with simple wall plugs and screws.
Drywall/plasterboard: use hollow wall anchors, cavity screws, or self-drilling anchors. Hollow cavities: toggles or snap-toggle anchors offer broader bearing. Solid brick or concrete: wedge anchors or large expansion anchors deliver the best security. Matching the anchor to the substrate prevents overloading the wall and reduces the risk of failure.
Don’t guess the load — estimate it. A small mirror might be 5–10 lbs, but a wall-mounted shelf with items could easily be 30–50 lbs. For heavy loads — TV brackets, shelving units, or bathroom cabinets — opt for heavier duty wedge anchors or multiple anchors spaced properly. Always give yourself a safety margin and distribute weight across several fixings if possible.
Anchor packaging often specifies compatible screw diameters (commonly 1/8 in, 3/16 in, 1/4 in). Using a screw that’s too thin can shear, while one that’s too thick can split an anchor. Match screw type and length to the anchor instructions for the strongest hold. When in doubt, test on a scrap board or in an out-of-the-way spot.
Installation makes the difference between an anchor that lasts and one that fails. A precise pilot hole, correct depth, and proper tightening technique will keep your fittings secure. Here are practical tips that save headaches and wall repairs.
Always follow the manufacturer’s recommended drill bit diameter. For solid anchors, drill straight and to the proper depth — mark your bit with tape to avoid drilling too deep. For hollow anchors, choose the hole size the anchor requires; too big and the anchor won’t expand properly, too small and the anchor won’t insert cleanly.
When you drive a screw into an anchor, stop when the fixture is snug and the anchor has fully engaged. Over-tightening can crush plastic plugs, tear out hollow anchors, and strip threads. A hand-tightening finish with a screwdriver gives better feel than a high-torque power driver for final tightening.
Ensure the embedded part of the anchor sits flush with the internal wall surface when it expands, otherwise load distribution will be uneven. If the anchor sits proud or the screw doesn’t seat flush, remove and re-drill as needed — a shaky anchor is worse than starting over.
Not all anchors are created equal, and each type has a niche. Wedge anchors offer maximum holding power in solid materials, hollow wall anchors provide breadth of bearing in drywall, and cavity screws with their larger heads and matching fixings are tailored specifically for drywall applications.
Wedge anchors expand against solid substrates and resist both shear and pull-out forces well. Use them for heavy fixtures on brick, concrete, or block walls. They’re reliable but require drilling into a solid surface and precise installation.
Hollow wall anchors expand behind the drywall to distribute loads over a wider area, which helps with medium-weight items. They’re less invasive than toggles in some situations and are a good compromise for fixtures in plasterboard where a stud isn’t available.
Cavity screws typically pair with a compatible wall anchor or plug to create a strong direct connection to the drywall. They’re often used for hanging cabinets or shelves that won’t hit a stud. A tub of varied cavity screws gives you options for different sheet thicknesses and loads.
If Unicrimp doesn’t have exactly what you need, or you want more specialized fixings, there are great alternatives: metal toggle bolts, molly bolts, self-drilling drywall anchors, and heavy-duty insulated anchors for rigorous demands. Combine anchors with proper screws, washers, and surface plates for the best results.
Toggle bolts offer exceptional holding power in drywall because the metal wings open behind the board, creating a large spreader. Snap-toggle systems give repeatable, high-strength performance and are often preferred for TVs and heavy shelving where safety is critical.
Molly bolts are metal anchors that set inside the wall and lock into place. They’re reusable and good for medium loads. Metal anchors resist long-term creep better than plastic in some environments and can be a better bet in areas with temperature fluctuation.
Let’s put anchors into real-world contexts so you can make quick decisions on the job.
For lightweight frames under 10 lbs use simple wall plugs and screws or small hollow anchors in drywall. For heavier mirrors, use two anchors spaced apart or secure into a stud when possible.
For shelving that will bear books or kitchenware, use multiple wedge anchors into studs or heavy-duty wedge anchors in masonry. If mounting to drywall only, use snap-toggle or high-quality hollow wall anchors rated for the combined load of the shelf plus contents.
Use reinforced anchors: multiple wedge anchors into masonry, or studs with lag bolts whenever possible. If studs are inaccessible, use industrial-grade toggle anchors rated beyond the expected load and follow bracket manufacturer guidelines closely.
Choose corrosion-resistant anchors and fasteners in bathrooms because moisture can weaken materials over time. Stainless or coated anchors with appropriate wall plugs will prolong life and prevent loosening.
Buy the right quantities for the job. Large packs (like 100-count wedges or wall plugs) save money for frequent users, while small packs are more sensible for one-off installs. Store anchors in clear, labeled containers so you can reach the right size quickly and avoid mixing similar-looking items.
Good tools make all the difference: a drill with a selection of masonry and wood bits, a vacuum to clear dust from holes, a torque-limited driver or screwdriver, a tape measure, a level, and a stud-finder. Keep a small test board handy for trial installs so you can confirm fit and performance before drilling visible areas.
Anchors can corrode or loosen with vibration and time. Inspect high-stress fixings periodically, especially for items you use daily like shelves and towel rails. For peace of mind, replace any anchor that shows signs of movement or material fatigue. In humid or coastal areas, favor stainless or coated anchors to resist rust.
Anchors are simple parts with an outsized impact on how safe and tidy your installation will be. Match the anchor to the wall type, respect load ratings, use the right tools, and you’ll avoid common failures. Whether you go with Unicrimp wedge anchors for masonry or hollow wall anchors for drywall, the right combination of anchor, screw, and technique makes the difference between a secure mount and a repair job.
Armed with this guide and a small selection of the anchors described — wedge anchors for solids, hollow wall anchors and cavity screws for plasterboard, and some general-purpose wall plugs and hammer-in fixings — you’ll be ready for most household and light trade projects. If you’re in doubt about load or substrate, opt for the stronger anchor type or consult a professional for heavy or safety-critical mounts.
Happy drilling — and remember, a well-placed anchor is like a good handshake: reliable, steady, and built to last.
Conclusion: Choosing the right anchor comes down to material, load, and installation care. The Unicrimp range covers many common needs, and knowing when to use wedge anchors, hollow wall anchors, or cavity screws will keep your fixtures secure. Keep the right tools, match screws to anchors, and don’t rush the install — a careful job lasts longer and looks better.
| Drywall Anchors | Price | |
|---|---|---|
| Unicrimp Wall Plug Brown Boxed Pack Of 100 | £ 1,42 | |
| Unicrimp 6x40mm Hammer In Fixings Pack Of 16 | £ 1,92 | |
| Unicrimp Large Hollow Wall Anchors M6 Pack Of 10 | £ 5,08 | |
| Unicrimp M10x40mm Wedge Anchors Pack Of 50 | £ 13,88 | |
| Unicrimp M6x25mm Wedge Anchors Pack Of 100 | £ 15,50 | |
| Unicrimp 200 Cavity Screws And Fixings Tub | £ 28,20 |
