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If you’ve ever marveled at a perfectly smooth wall or a crisp mortar joint, a lot of that finish comes down to the humble float. A masonry float is the finishing tool that levels, compacts, and textures plaster, render, concrete, or mortar. Think of it as the final artist’s brushstroke — it doesn’t create the structure, but it makes the surface sing. Whether you’re skimming fresh render or smoothing a concrete slab, the right float can speed the job, reduce rework, and leave a professional finish.
One popular option you’ll see often is the CK Skimmer Float, sized roughly 7.1 by 12.6 inches. This mid-size skimming float is a great all-rounder: big enough to cover decent surface area so you’re not spending forever on a wall, but small enough to keep precise control along edges and corners. It’s designed for final smoothing of plaster and thin render coats — imagine gliding a magic wand across wet material to remove high spots, firm up the surface, and produce a uniform texture. For DIYers and pros alike, a skimming float like this is one of the first tools you’ll want in your bag.
Not all floats are made the same — material, size, and edge type all change how the tool performs. Choosing the right type for the job is like picking the right paintbrush for a canvas: the wrong one can make your life harder. Below are the most common float types and when they shine.
Magnesium floats are lightweight and resist sticking to cement and mortar. They’re perfect when you need a smooth finish on render or concrete without constantly fighting material build-up. Magnesium’s slight porosity helps keep a subtle microtexture that grips a subsequent finish coat. If you’re working on larger areas and want to limit hand fatigue, a magnesium float is a smart pick.
Wooden floats are traditional and excel at producing a rough texture that’s ideal for keying subsequent coats of render or plaster. They’re softer than metal and won’t score delicate surfaces. For craftsmen working with lime plaster or lime-based renders, the warmth and subtle give of a wooden float often produces the most desirable finish.
Plastic or foam floats are common in tile and grout work. They won’t damage tiles, and their lightweight nature reduces wrist strain when you’re grouting a bathroom or kitchen. Foam floats can also be used for very delicate plaster finishes where you need to avoid aggressive abrasion.
For tile grout, a rubber grout float is the workhorse. It allows you to push grout into joints efficiently and scrape excess away without scratching the tile surface. The rubber face compresses into the joints and leaves a neat, compact finish ready for wiping.
While technically not called floats, steel finishing trowels are closely related and are essential when you need an ultra-smooth finish on plaster or concrete. Stainless steel versions resist corrosion and give a polished appearance that’s often the final touch before painting or decorating.
Size impacts coverage, control, and fatigue. A 7.1 x 12.6 inch skimmer float hits a sweet spot — large enough to smooth broad swathes yet manageable along edges. For large external walls or slab work, you might opt for a bigger float to reduce time on site. For tight spaces, corners, or decorative finishes, a smaller float or a trim float offers better control. As a rule: bigger = faster on open runs; smaller = neater near detail work.
Longevity matters. Look for floats with a comfortable ergonomic handle, a firmly bonded face (whether magnesium, wood, or rubber), and corrosion-resistant fittings. Handles with a soft, non-slip grip reduce hand fatigue and give better control when pressing or angling the float. For magnesium and metal products, check that edges are smooth to avoid nicking the surface. If you want a tool that lasts years, a stainless steel handle or quality fiberglass mount paired with a replaceable face makes maintenance easy.
Knowing the right float is half the battle; technique is the other half. The right pressure, angle, and timing will transform a so-so job into a professional one. Here are practical tips that pros use and DIYers can steal.
Before you ever touch a float to fresh render or plaster, make sure the base coat is stable and slightly set. Too wet and the float will dig in; too dry and it won’t compact properly. Clean edges and remove loose debris so the float glides without dragging grit through the finish.
Float at a shallow angle — almost flat — and use light, even pressure. Heavy pressure can gouge or over-compact the material, while too little pressure won’t eliminate high spots. Imagine you’re using a squeegee on a windshield: balanced, even strokes give the best result.
Overlap each pass slightly to avoid streaks and ridges. Work from the bottom up on vertical surfaces so any excess material runs downward and gets smoothed out. For horizontal surfaces, use sweeping, parallel passes and finish with cross-hatching if you want a particularly uniform texture.
After the initial smoothing with a float like the CK Skimmer, switch to a finer finishing trowel or a stainless steel float if you want a polished surface. Sometimes a light misting of water and a final pass with a stainless tool can give a near-mirror finish on certain plasters and microcements.
Cleaning right after use is crucial. Fresh cementitious material bonds fast. Rinse metal or magnesium floats with water and use a stiff brush to remove residue before it hardens. Wooden floats should be scraped clean and dried to avoid warping. If your float has a replaceable face or pad, swap it when wear diminishes performance rather than trying to force a tired tool to behave.
A float rarely works alone. Building a compact toolkit saves time and improves finish quality. Here are complementary tools worth investing in alongside your float choices.
Trowels are indispensable for applying mortar and render. A finishing trowel provides the last smoothing touch after floating. For tight edges and corners, a smaller pointed trowel helps create clean lines.
For brickwork or blockwork, pointing tools shape mortar joints neatly. Using a jointing tool after initial setting compacts the joint and sheds water, improving durability and aesthetics.
A hawk keeps material within easy reach, reducing trips to the mix. For larger render jobs, a topping board or renderer's rule helps level broad surfaces before floating.
Long straight edges or screeds are perfect for leveling large plaster or render areas before you skim. They help you hit the correct thickness and reduce the amount of floating needed to achieve a uniform surface.
If you’re a weekend renovator, it’s tempting to buy the cheapest float you can find. But cheap often means thin metal, a poor bond between the face and the handle, or an uncomfortable grip. For occasional jobs, a mid-range magnesium or plastic float offers great value. If you’re trading or tackling frequent builds, spend more on a top-quality magnesium or stainless steel float — the tool will pay for itself with faster work and fewer finish problems.
Use a skimmer float like the CK Skimmer for thin finishing coats, skim plaster, and smoothing thin render. It’s a precision finishing tool rather than a bulk material mover. For rough leveling, a wooden or magnesium float helps shape the substrate before you switch to the skimmer for the final work. For tile grout, reach for a rubber grout float. Each tool has its niche; using them in sequence yields the best result.
Aside from CK, other reputable brands produce quality floats: Marshalltown, Ox, Rubi (for tile tools), and Draper. These makers offer a spectrum from budget to premium. Look for warranties, replaceable parts, and solid customer feedback on grip comfort and durability. If you want the best of both worlds, some manufacturers offer interchangeable faces for a single handle system — a clever way to save money and reduce tool clutter.
Before you buy, check comparison platforms and specialist forums where contractors share hands-on experience. Look for real-world comments on how a float performs over time, not just spec sheets. Reviews that mention comfort during prolonged use, edge sharpness, and how easy the tool is to clean are particularly valuable. Comparing multiple listings helps you spot deals on premium tools that might be only slightly more expensive but far more durable.
Floats are low-risk compared to power tools, but basic safety matters. Wear gloves to avoid blistering on long jobs and eye protection to keep splatter out of your eyes when working with cementitious mixes. Keep your workstation tidy so you don’t trip on stacked buckets or boards. And remember: good ergonomics — change hand positions and take short breaks — will keep you working longer without pain.
Want to be greener? Choose longer-lasting tools and maintain them well — they’ll need replacing less often. Wooden floats from sustainably sourced timber can be an eco-friendly choice. Also, by using the right float and technique, you reduce material waste from reworks, which saves money and reduces landfill-bound rubble.
Start by matching the float to the task: skimming floats for finishing, magnesium for large smoothing jobs, wood for keyed textures, and rubber for grout. Consider size: go larger for open areas and smaller for detail work. Invest in build quality for frequent use, maintain your tools, and practice technique. With the right float and a little practice, you’ll get smoother walls, faster turnaround, and fewer headaches.
Floats are deceptively simple tools that make a huge difference in the appearance and longevity of masonry and plaster finishes. Whether you pick up a CK Skimmer Float roughly 7.1 by 12.6 inches for skimming tasks, a chunky magnesium float for big exterior walls, or a rubber grout float for tiling, choosing the right model and using it correctly will save time and improve results. Invest a bit more in quality if you work often, learn the basic techniques, and maintain your tools — your finished surfaces will thank you.
| Floats | Price | |
|---|---|---|
| Ck Skimmer Float 180x320mm | £ 8,52 |
