Routing Tools FAQs
Do I need a fixed-base or a plunge router for general woodworking?
If you’re mostly doing edge profiles, flush trimming, and light shaping, a fixed-base router is stable and easy to control. If you plan to cut mortises, stopped grooves, hinge recesses, or inlays, a plunge router is more versatile. Not sure? A combo kit lets you swap bases so you can handle both tasks without buying two separate tools.
Is a 1/2-inch collet really better than a 1/4-inch collet?
Yes for heavier work. A 1/2-inch collet grips more securely, reduces vibration, and supports larger bits for smoother cuts. A 1/4-inch collet is fine for small profiles, trim work, and compact routers. Ideally, choose a router that includes both so you can run any bit you need.
Can a trim router handle dadoes and grooves?
It can, within reason. Use sharp straight or spiral bits, make shallow passes, and keep the cut narrow. For wide or deep grooves, step up to a mid-size router with more horsepower and a 1/2-inch shank bit for cleaner results and less strain on the tool.
Do I really need a router table, or is handheld routing enough?
Handheld routing covers plenty of tasks, especially edges and on-site work. A router table shines for small parts, repeatable profiles, and operations that benefit from consistent feed against a fence. If you do lots of molding or cabinet work, a table quickly becomes a favorite “extra set of hands.”
What horsepower should I look for in a first router?
For all-around use, something around 1.75 to 2.25 HP with variable speed is a great starting point. It’ll run common bits with ease, and you can add a 1/2-inch collet for stability. If you mainly do light trim work, a 1 to 1.25 HP trim router is compact, affordable, and incredibly handy.