Petticoats & Pettipants

Ultimate Guide to Petticoats, Pettipants & Underskirts: Volume, Fit, and Style

Introduction: Why an Underskirt Still Matters

Have you ever noticed how a simple slip or underskirt can transform the way a skirt or dress hangs? Whether you're dressing for a wedding, stepping into a vintage look, or just want a smoother silhouette under everyday skirts, petticoats and pettipants are tiny wardrobe heroes. They add structure, modesty, and comfort—plus a little theatrical flair when you want it. This guide walks you through types, fit, styling, and care so you can pick the right piece and wear it with confidence.

What Are Petticoats, Pettipants, and Underskirts?

Petticoats and underskirts are garments worn beneath skirts or dresses to add volume, prevent transparency, or create a smoother shape. Pettipants, on the other hand, are hybrids—imagine a pair of soft shorts with a skirted look that keeps everything in place while offering coverage and comfort. The term "underskirt" is broad and can mean anything from a lightweight slip to a structured crinoline.

Pettipants vs. Petticoats: Which One Should You Choose?

Think of pettipants as practical and petticoats as dramatic. If you want Freedom Of Movement and coverage—especially for dancing or windy days—pettipants are your friend. If you’re chasing volume and that classic bell silhouette for vintage or bridal looks, a layered petticoat or crinoline is the ticket. Both can coexist in your wardrobe depending on what you need.

Popular Types of Petticoats and Underskirts

There’s a surprising variety of underskirts on the market, and each serves a different purpose. Below are the most common options you'll encounter when shopping or comparing products.

Crinoline Petticoats

Crinolines usually have a stiffer structure—sometimes with hoops or stiffened tulle—to support really full skirts. They can add several inches of volume, which is perfect for ball gowns or 1950s-style dresses. Expect them to give you a silhouette that reads dramatic from across the room.

Layered Tulle Petticoats

Layered tulle petticoats are softer than hoop crinolines and provide a fluffy, cloud-like volume. They often come in multiple layers of tulle and nylon, giving you a controlled fullness that looks romantic and moves beautifully. Great for bridal looks or vintage-inspired outfits where you want body without a rigid shape.

Slips and Half-Slips

Slips are the simplest underskirts: lightweight, silky, and designed to reduce cling and add modesty. Half-slips cover from the waist down and are ideal under straight or pencil skirts where you need smoothness more than volume.

Choosing the Right Length and Volume

Length and volume define how your skirt or dress will look. Here’s how to think about these two factors in plain terms.

Measuring for Fit

Measure your waist in inches using a soft tape where you normally wear your skirt—most people wear skirts at their natural waist or slightly below. For length, measure from that waist point to where you want the hem to land: knee-length skirts are usually around 22 to 24 inches from the waist, tea-length often lands at 32 to 36 inches, and floor-length gowns are 40 inches or longer depending on your height and shoes.

Understanding Volume

One layer of tulle gives a hint of lift; three to five layers give a fuller look, and hoops or crinoline frames push the volume even further. If you want subtle flare, go for one or two layers; for full vintage impact, look at multi-layer tulle or hooped crinolines that can add 10 to 20 inches of flare at the hem.

Materials: Tulle, Cotton, Nylon, and Lace

The fabric your underskirt is made from affects comfort, appearance, and how it behaves under your outer garments. Let’s break down the options.

Tulle

Tulle is lightweight and stiff, which makes it ideal for adding volume. It’s breathable, dries quickly, and maintains shape well. However, it can be scratchy against bare skin—look for cotton lining or soft elastic waists for comfort.

Cotton and Cotton Blends

Cotton underskirts are breathable and comfortable for everyday wear. They’re less likely to cause static cling and are gentle against the skin, making them a good choice for hot days or people with sensitive skin.

Nylon and Polyester

Synthetic fabrics like nylon are common in modern petticoats because they’re durable, hold shape, and are often less expensive. They can create a very smooth silhouette under lightweight fabrics but may trap heat more than natural fibers.

Pettipants: The Practical Underskirt Alternative

If you live an active life or hate fussing with layers, pettipants are a clever solution. They look like shorts with a skirt overlay, so you get the coverage of shorts and the appearance of a skirt.

Benefits for Everyday Wear

Pettipants prevent chafing, stop accidental exposure in a breeze, and are great for dancers, performers, or anyone who sits, leaps, or twirls a lot. They’re usually made from stretch fabrics that hug the hips in a comfortable way, and many styles include a breathable cotton crotch for hygiene and comfort.

Styling Tips: From Everyday to Bridal

Styling underskirts is more fun than most people expect. A petticoat can elevate a simple dress, and a pair of pettipants can make a summer skirt actually feel like a summer skirt without worry.

Rockabilly and Retro Looks

For a 1950s vibe, pair a tea-length circle skirt with a multi-layered tulle petticoat to get that iconic poof. Choose a petticoat that adds 6 to 12 inches of volume at the hem for that bold silhouette. Add a cinched waist and you’ve got the whole era in motion.

Bridal and Formal Wear

Under a wedding gown, a crinoline can transform the dress from pretty to breathtaking. Bridal crinolines often include adjustable hoops so you can tweak volume until the gown hangs exactly right. For a more subtle wedding look, soft tulle layers create romance without stiffness.

Sizing and Fit Tips (for All Genders)

Petticoats and pettipants aren’t gendered—anyone who wants the look or function can wear them. Fit comes down to a few simple numbers and a couple of style choices.

Waistbands and Elasticity

Most underskirts use elastic waistbands or drawstrings. If you’re between sizes, opt for an elastic band that offers stretch of 2 to 4 inches. For waist measurement, pick the underskirt size that matches your natural waist measurement in inches; if you prefer the skirt lower, measure at your hip for low-rise styles.

Adjustability

Look for features like adjustable hooks, drawstrings, or snap attachments that allow small tweaks. These can make a big difference when you're pairing an underskirt with a variety of dresses and skirts.

Caring for Your Petticoat or Pettipants

Proper care keeps lightweight fabrics from matting and elastic from losing bounce. Here’s a straightforward care routine that works for most underskirts.

Washing and Drying

Hand-wash delicate tulle or use a gentle machine cycle with the garment in a mesh bag. Use cool water and mild detergent to protect fabric and color. Avoid high heat when drying—air dry flat or hang in a shaded area. If a crinoline includes metal hoops, check manufacturer instructions; sometimes spot-cleaning is safest to avoid rust.

Storage

Store petticoats hanging to maintain shape, or loosely folded for softer versions. Keep them in breathable garment bags if you’re storing seasonal pieces—this prevents crushing while keeping dust away. Avoid heavy stacking under other garments to maintain volume.

Where to Buy and How to Compare Prices

There are tons of options out there—from budget-friendly nylon petticoats to bespoke bridal crinolines. When comparing, think about what you really need: volume, comfort, or durability. Generic underskirts can be found inexpensively, while structured crinolines and bridal petticoats command higher prices due to materials and construction.

What to Look For When Comparing Products

Compare fabric content (tulle vs. cotton), number of layers, presence of hoops or stiffening, and the type of waistband. Read reviews focusing on fit and how true to advertised measurements the piece runs. Also factor in care: pieces that require special cleaning may cost more to maintain over time.

Frequently Paired Items and Accessories

To get the most from an underskirt, pair it with complementary pieces that enhance comfort and style. Simple additions can make a big impact on how the whole outfit reads.

Crinoline Hoops, Shapewear, and Slips

Hoop petticoats are often used with floor-length gowns, while shaping slips help smooth out lines under pencil skirts. A camisole can prevent static and create a smooth transition from bodice to skirt. Small accessories like waist cinchers help define shape if you want a more hourglass look.

Special Considerations: Performance, Costuming, and Gender Expression

Petticoats and pettipants are invaluable for performers and costumers. They help costumes read well on stage and provide consistency across multiple looks. For people exploring gender expression, underskirts offer a low-barrier way to change silhouette without permanent alterations to your wardrobe.

Stage and Dance Uses

Choose durable materials for stage wear; layered nylon and reinforced seams stand up better to repeated movement. Pettipants are a staple for dancers because they prevent wardrobe malfunctions and stay put during vigorous routines.

Sustainability and Ethical Choices

As with any garment purchase, consider longevity and manufacturing. Natural fibers and well-constructed pieces often last longer, meaning fewer replacements. If sustainability matters to you, look for reusable, durable underskirts and consider buying secondhand or swapping with friends for costume pieces.

Final Tips Before You Buy

Try before you commit if possible—especially with formal pieces. If you must buy online, double-check size charts in inches and look for return-friendly sellers (but remember to avoid asking about specific return policies here). Keep your intended use in mind: everyday comfort leans toward cotton and pettipants; dramatic visuals call for layered tulle or crinoline.

Conclusion

Petticoats, pettipants, and underskirts are versatile, practical, and capable of elevating any skirt or dress. Whether you're after subtle smoothing under a pencil skirt or full vintage drama for a special occasion, there’s an underskirt to fit your needs. Pay attention to material, fit in inches, and how much volume you want at the hem—those are the true difference-makers. Try a few styles, mix and match with accessories, and you’ll likely find that the right underskirt can change not just how a garment looks, but how you feel wearing it.