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A planer is one of those tools that turns rough, unruly boards into smooth, dimensionally accurate lumber you’re actually excited to work with. Whether you’re shaving a stubborn door edge, flattening a tabletop glue-up, or dialing in the thickness of a batch of shelves, a good planer is like a magic eraser for imperfections. It removes tiny layers of wood—think fractions of an inch—so you can fine-tune surfaces, correct thickness, and square things up with precision. If you’ve ever fought a twisted board or a tight door, you already know how game-changing that can be.
Planers show up in a variety of deal cycles—bank holiday events, seasonal DIY promotions, and weekend flash sales are common times to find big savings. You’ll often see discounts on corded electric hand planers for quick on-site trimming, while benchtop thickness planers tend to dip during major sales moments. Using a comparison platform like ZoneOffer (a comparison site, not a store) helps you scan across multiple retailers fast, weigh specifications side by side, and jump on limited-time offers with confidence.
Price tags alone don’t tell the full story. When you look at a “planers price list,” focus on key specs and what they mean for your work. Cutting width (common hand planer widths are around 3-1/4 in), maximum depth per pass (often from about 1/32 in to 1/8 in), blade type (HSS vs. carbide), and motor power are the real difference makers. Then weigh warranty length, included accessories (extra blades, fences, dust adapters), and total weight for portability. A slightly higher priced planer might include carbide blades and a better fence, which can save you time and money over the long haul.
Not all planers do the same job. Picking the right type is half the battle. For quick trims and bevels, an electric hand planer is perfect. For dimensioning boards and tackling rough-sawn stock, a benchtop thickness planer is your workhorse. Some setups combine a jointer and a planer in one unit for maximizing small workshop space. And if you’re mobile, cordless planers make light work of punch-list tasks without dragging along an extension cord.
Electric hand planers specialize in fast stock removal across small areas and edges. Most offer around a 3-1/4 in cutting width, a helpful fence for edge control, and a depth dial that lets you remove slivers—1/64 in, 1/32 in, or up to roughly 1/8 in per pass. Use them for door fits, chamfers, minor scribe cuts, or easing sharp edges. They’re lightweight, typically under 10 lb, which makes them a go-to for on-site tweaks where precision still matters.
Benchtop thickness planers are the backbone for furniture builders and serious DIYers. With cutting widths around 12 to 13 in, they can flatten and dimension stock for cabinets, shelves, and tabletops. Expect adjustable depth per pass (often 1/32 in increments), foldable infeed/outfeed tables, and dust collection ports (frequently around 2-1/2 in). Set them up once and batch process a pile of boards to the exact thickness you want—say 3/4 in—so your parts fit together perfectly.
Short on space? A jointer-planer combo gives you two critical machines in one footprint. The jointer flattens one face and squares an edge; the planer then makes the opposite face parallel and brings the board to final thickness. While these combos are larger and heavier than benchtop units, they can be a lifesaver in compact shops. If you frequently rescue rough stock, the efficiency and accuracy pay off quickly.
If you’re already on a battery platform, a cordless planer is a smart add. They’re stellar for trimming doors in place, shaving cabinets during installation, and cleaning up stair treads without hunting for an outlet. Runtime has improved dramatically, especially with higher capacity packs. Just remember: for heavy, continuous stock removal, corded or benchtop tools still offer the most relentless power.
Specs aren’t just marketing—each one affects your results. Before you jump on a discount, get crystal clear on what numbers and features translate to smoother cuts, fewer defects, and a better workflow.
Cutting width determines how much surface you can cover in one sweep. A 3-1/4 in hand planer handles edges and smaller panels; a 12–13 in thickness planer is ideal for boards and glue-ups. Depth per pass is your speed dial. Removing 1/32 in keeps tear-out minimal and leaves a cleaner finish. When you’re pushing for stock removal, up to around 1/8 in can be handy, but finesse your final pass with a lighter cut for that glassy sheen.
High-speed steel (HSS) blades are sharp and affordable—great for softwoods and general use. Carbide blades cost more but hold an edge longer, especially on hardwoods like oak or maple and on boards with the occasional hidden knot. Many thickness planers offer double-edged knives you can flip when one side dulls. Spiral or helical cutterheads, often with small carbide inserts, reduce tear-out and noise while leaving a superior surface.
Power equals consistency. A robust motor maintains speed under load so you don’t bog down mid-pass. No-load speeds are typically measured in RPM, and higher RPM combined with efficient feed rates means more cuts per inch—smoother surfaces with fewer ridges. If you regularly work hardwoods or wide boards, this combination matters even more.
Hand planers rely on a flat shoe for precision. Look for a long, rigid base and a fence that locks down solid so you can true edges without wobble. Bevel capability (often with detents at common angles) helps you run repeatable chamfers. On thickness planers, the bed, infeed/outfeed supports, and adjustable pressure bars reduce snipe—the shallow dips that can show up near the ends of boards.
Planers produce a mountain of chips. Efficient chip ejection keeps the cutterhead clear and reduces swirl marks. A dust shroud and port (1-1/4 in on some hand planers, 2-1/2 in on many benchtop units) lets you hook up a vac or dust collector. The bonus? A cleaner shop and a cleaner cut.
Planers shine across a surprising range of tasks. Trim carpenters use hand planers to fit doors, clean miters, and flush face frames. Furniture makers lean on thickness planers to bring a stack of boards to the exact same thickness—3/4 in, 1 in, or whatever the design calls for—so panel glue-ups and joinery align. DIYers love planers for leveling butcher blocks, resurfacing workbenches, and turning “close enough” lumber into dead-accurate parts.
Corded planers deliver continuous power—great for long sessions and dense hardwoods. Cordless models trade a bit of sustained muscle for grab-and-go convenience. If you’re installing cabinets, working on stairs, or adjusting doors throughout a house, cordless wins on mobility. If you’re dimensioning a dozen 6 ft boards on a Saturday, plug-in power or a benchtop planer is the better bet. Many pros keep both and choose based on the day’s punch list.
A silky finish comes from a blend of good setup, sharp knives, and a light touch. Start with calibration, plan your pass strategy, and let the planer do the work. If you hear the motor strain or feel chatter, back off the depth, slow your feed, and take multiple lighter passes. It’s like shaving—nobody tries to take it all off in one swipe.
On benchtop thickness planers, set the infeed and outfeed tables co-planar to the bed to reduce snipe. If your machine allows, adjust the pressure bar and chip breaker according to the manual. On hand planers, check the shoe for flatness and ensure the blade projects evenly across the width. A few minutes of setup pays off in perfectly consistent, chatter-free cuts.
Always reference a flat face or edge. For hand planers, keep even pressure—more on the front shoe as you start, transitioning to the rear as you exit the cut. Take overlapping passes like mowing a lawn, and sneak up on your final thickness with shallow cuts (1/64 in to 1/32 in). With thickness planers, face-joint one side first if possible, then plane the opposite face until parallel. Finish with a light pass for that near-polished look.
Tear-out happens when grain reverses or goes wild. Minimize it by taking shallow cuts, using sharp or carbide knives, and if available, switching to a helical cutterhead. Skewing a hand planer at a slight angle reduces the effective cutting angle and can make tough grain behave. On thickness planers, feed the board so the grain “falls” away from the cutterhead, and keep that final pass ultra-light—think whisper-thin.
Sharp blades and a clean machine are half the battle. Vacuum chips from the housing, keep rollers clean, and inspect belts periodically. Rotate or replace double-edged knives before they’re totally dull—waiting too long risks tear-out and strain on the motor. If you sharpen HSS blades, use consistent angles and finish with a fine stone. Carbide lasts longer but typically gets replaced rather than sharpened at home. A touch of paste wax on a planer bed or hand planer shoe reduces friction and helps boards glide.
Set a budget by job type. If you mainly trim doors and do small fixes, an affordable 3-1/4 in hand planer with a solid fence might be perfect. For furniture, a dependable 12–13 in thickness planer is worth the investment. Compare warranties—longer coverage can indicate confidence in the build. Don’t overlook accessories: extra knives, a reliable dust adapter, a sturdy stand for benchtop planers, and high-capacity dust collection will elevate your results. Using a comparison platform like ZoneOffer helps you match price, features, and included extras without hopping between a dozen tabs.
Going too deep on the first pass is the classic rookie move. It saves a minute now and costs you an hour fixing tear-out later. Another pitfall is ignoring snipe—support your boards, keep your knives sharp, and consider sacrificial end boards if your machine is prone to dips. Don’t forget grain direction; feeding a board the wrong way invites splinters. And finally, never skip dust control. Chips clog cutters and leave tracks you’ll have to sand out.
Planers and jointers are cousins, not twins. A jointer creates one flat face and a square edge. A planer makes the opposite face parallel and brings the board to final thickness. If your stock is cupped or twisted, a planer alone won’t make it flat; you need a jointed reference face first. Sanders, meanwhile, refine surfaces but don’t true dimensions. The ideal workflow? Joint one face and one edge, plane to thickness, then sand for finish.
The right planer doesn’t just smooth wood—it smooths your entire build process. From 3-1/4 in hand planers that make trim work a breeze to 12–13 in benchtop thickness planers that turn rough boards into uniform parts, there’s a tool for every shop and every budget. Focus on the specs that actually matter—cutting width, depth per pass, blade type, and dust control—and you’ll feel the difference on day one. Ready to upgrade? Compare popular offers, check a planers price list, and stack features against price using a trusted comparison site like ZoneOffer, then pick the model that fits your workflow, not just your wallet.
Planers | Price | |
---|---|---|
Bosch Electric Power Planer Pho 2000 - 06032a4100 | kr. 848,- | |
Makita Kp0800 Planer 620w | kr. 1.083,- | |
Metabo Ho 18 Ltx 20-82 - 602082840 Cordless Planer | kr. 1.742,- | |
Bosch Akkuhøvl Gho 18v-li Solo - Solo | kr. 1.960,- | |
Scheppach Hms850 - 1250 W | kr. 3.262,- | |
Makita 1806b Planer 1200w | kr. 3.381,- |