Indoor Climbing Holds

The Ultimate Guide to Indoor Climbing Holds: Choose, Install, and Train Like a Pro

Why indoor climbing holds are the heart of your home wall

Think of your climbing wall like a guitar: the holds are the strings that make the music. Swap them out, and the whole route changes. Indoor climbing holds control the challenge, the feel, and how your technique improves. Whether you’re building a tiny moonboard in a spare room or outfitting a garage bouldering wall, the right holds turn raw plywood into a playground for strength, skill, and creativity.

If you’re shopping in the UK or elsewhere, you’ll find everything from single test pieces to full 50-piece sets. Picking holds wisely means improving faster, training smarter, and keeping sessions fun instead of frustrating. Let’s break down what matters so you can get the most bang for your buck.

Types of indoor climbing holds — what each one trains

Jugs

Jugs are the friendly holds: deep, positive, and easy to grab. They’re perfect for warm-ups, endurance circuits, and beginners learning footwork. If your wall were a coffee shop, jugs would be the comfy armchair—reliable and comfortable. Jugs often come in sizes from 2 to 6 inches deep and are staples in every set.

Crimps

Crimps are small edges that force fingers into a tight grip position. They’re the scalpel of climbing holds—precise and unforgiving. Training on crimps builds finger strength and technique, but use them sparingly to avoid overuse injuries. Mini-crimps can be as small as 1/4 to 1 inch, so accuracy in foot placement matters.

Slopers

Slopers look smooth and seductive, but they demand body tension and balance. These rounded holds teach you to trust friction and full-arm engagement rather than just finger strength. Slopers come in a range of diameters—many are 3 to 8 inches across—so you can scale the difficulty by size and angle.

Pockets

Pockets have holes for one to three fingers and are brilliant for specific finger training. They’re excellent for building targeted strength, but they also carry a higher injury risk if misused. Start with shallow pockets and progress over time; pockets are like piano keys—play them carefully to build skill without strain.

Pinches

Pinches require you to squeeze a hold between thumb and fingers, strengthening opposing muscles. These are fantastic for developing thumb power and overall grip coordination. A standard pinch may be 2 to 5 inches wide; the narrower the pinch, the harder it feels.

Volumes

Volumes are big geometric shapes that bolt to your wall and act as platforms for other holds or as features on their own. Volumes transform routes dramatically—one volume can make a move entirely new. They’re measured in inches or feet for the face dimensions and give route setters a playground for creativity.

Materials and build: resin vs. polyurethane (and other options)

Most modern holds are made from polyurethane or polyester resin. Polyurethane is lighter, more durable, and resists chalk abrasion better, while polyester resin can feel slightly grippier at first but wears faster. Think of polyurethane as a high-performance sneaker that lasts; resin is the softer trainer that breaks in quickly.

Some cheaper holds are made from wood or 3D-printed plastics. Wood slats and wooden holds offer a smoother feel and are kinder on skin, making them popular for training boards and campus rungs. If you care about longevity and consistent texture, look for brands that specify polyurethane and show a clear manufacturing process.

How to choose the right set for your wall

Picking a hold set comes down to three questions: who’s climbing, what are your goals, and how big is your wall? For families or beginners, a 30- to 50-piece mixed set with plenty of jugs and medium crimps is ideal. If you’re training for bouldering, choose sets that include slopers, pinches, and a few tricky pockets.

Also consider balance: a set heavy on crimps will tax your fingers but may leave you short on feet. Look for packs that list hold sizes in inches and include a mix of textures and orientations. If you have a small wall—say under 6 feet wide—choose fewer large holds and more compact shapes to avoid overcrowding.

Installation basics: spacing, bolts, and T-nuts

Installing holds properly keeps your wall safe and versatile. Most route setters recommend spacing holds at least 6 to 12 inches apart for adult training; tighter spacing creates higher-density routes for technique work. When mounting volumes or large features, think in feet—give at least 1 to 2 feet of clear space around a volume to allow for movement.

T-nuts are the backbone of a modular wall. Standard panels often have T-nuts set on a grid, and holds mount with a bolt into those T-nuts. If you’re retrofitting a plywood panel, install T-nuts every 6 inches on a 2- or 4-inch grid for maximum flexibility. Always follow the hold manufacturer’s torque advice and use washers where recommended to protect the hold and wood.

Hardware and accessories worth investing in

Good hardware extends the life of your holds and keeps your wall safe. A few essentials: hardened bolts, T-nuts, a bolt wrench, a stiff nylon or horsehair brush for cleaning, and a set of spare screws for screw-on mini-holds. A torque wrench is handy for tightening bolts consistently without over-torquing fragile holds.

Consider training accessories like hangboards and campus rungs. Hangboards are excellent finger-training tools—often sized in inches for spacing between grips—while campus boards accelerate power development. If space is tight, a portable hangboard that mounts above a doorway can be a practical addition.

Designing routes: basic route-setting tips

Route setting is where art meets science. Start by deciding the movement quality you want: balance, dyno, smearing, or technical footwork. Use a few focused holds to create a “puzzle” move and fill the rest with supportive holds. Vary orientation and rotate holds to change difficulty without buying new gear.

Color-coding is helpful: assign one color per problem to keep training consistent. If you’re training endurance, set linked routes that are 10 to 30 moves long; for power, focus on 3 to 6 hard moves. Rotate routes weekly to avoid plateaus and to keep your brain—like a muscle—challenged and engaged.

Budgeting: expected price ranges and where to get deals

Prices vary widely. Single holds can start as low as £5 to £10 for simple shapes and go up to £40 or more for big sculpted pieces or volumes. Full 30- to 50-piece mixed sets commonly range from about £60 to £250 depending on material and brand. Training boards and hangboards add another £30 to £150 depending on quality.

To save money, compare offers across sellers and watch for seasonal sales. Buying larger mixed sets often gives more value per hold than purchasing many singles. If you want a curated feel, combine one smaller premium set with a cheaper mass set to balance cost and variety.

Care and maintenance: cleaning, rotation, and lifespan

Cleaning holds keeps texture consistent and removes oil and chalk buildup. A stiff brush and warm water usually do the trick; avoid harsh chemicals that can degrade polyurethane. For wooden holds, dry thoroughly after cleaning to prevent warping. Rotate holds regularly—every 2 to 8 weeks—to prevent polishing and to keep routes fresh.

Holds can last many years if cared for properly. Expect cheaper resin pieces to show wear sooner and premium polyurethane holds to retain texture longer. Keep spare bolts and screws on hand for quick repairs and check your T-nuts annually for loosening or wear.

Training strategies using different hold types

Use hold types strategically. Jugs are your endurance workhorse: long circuits with jugs build aerobic capacity and footwork. Crimps and pockets target finger strength; limit sessions to short, intense sets to reduce injury risk. Slopers and pinches force full-body tension and core engagement—great for translating gym strength to real rock.

Mix training modalities: dedicate days to power (short, max-effort moves), endurance (long circuits), and technique drills (silent feet, one-footed moves). Track your progress by noting hold types used, move counts, and rest intervals. Over time, that logbook becomes your personal roadmap.

Sourcing holds in the UK: brands and comparison tips

The UK market has a healthy selection of both domestic and international hold makers. Look for brands that publish hold dimensions in inches, provide clear load ratings, and show manufacturing materials. Read reviews, compare price-per-piece, and check return policies before buying; shopping comparison sites can reveal deals across retailers and help you spot bundle discounts.

If you’re building a public or commercial wall, verify certifications and commercial-grade hardware. For home walls, customer reviews and warranty terms are often the best indicators of value and durability. Combining sets from different makers is fine—just ensure bolt patterns and screw types are compatible.

Eco and safety considerations when buying holds

Some manufacturers use recycled materials or less toxic resins—if sustainability matters to you, look for brands that disclose their manufacturing practices. Safety-wise, always tighten bolts to the manufacturer’s recommendation and inspect holds periodically for cracks or hairline fractures. Replace any hold that shows damage rather than risking a failure mid-climb.

Conclusion

Indoor climbing holds are more than plastic pieces bolted to wood—they’re the tools that shape your training, creativity, and progress. Choosing the right mix of jugs, crimps, slopers, pinches, pockets, and volumes will make your wall versatile and exciting. Invest in good hardware, clean and rotate your holds, and think like a route setter when arranging them. With the right setup and a little planning, your home wall can become a gym, a studio, and a constant source of challenge that gets the best out of you.